From indie sleaze to agency ease: Henry Holland reflects on his notorious career

As a kid, he was creative, but like so many others he wasn’t sure where to focus that until someone close to him suggested journalism, “a skill that you can apply to any area of the creative industries."

He wanted to work in a creative sector but didn't have a wealth of choice growing up “up North where there aren’t many creative careers.” So Holland migrated to the capital and had a stint at the London College of Communication, then landing positions at top noughties mags Smash Hits and Bliss. He calls this a happy accident and speaks fondly of his time there.

“For me, it was working in fashion, but in an area that just wasn’t taking itself too seriously. It was really playful and fun.” These traits would stick with the young designer for the rest of his career.

And that’s when he started creating his infamous groupie tee, proudly flaunting cheeky slogans like ‘Flick yer bean for Agyness Deyn’ and ‘Get yer freak on Giles Deacon’. These were originally an inside joke for him and his mates, but they didn't stay that way for long. As the troupe wore them to parties, they grew in notoriety. This included childhood friend Deyn, who would go on to become one of the era's most sought-after models, his profile among London’s fashion crew grew during the rise of the ‘indie sleaze aesthetic’.

“It just took off so quickly that I saw an opportunity and had to chase it,” the designer reiterates. “With hindsight, they were kind of highlighting the fact that the fashion industry hadn't really explored its sense of humor.” By namechecking up-and-coming designers like Scotland’s Christopher Kane and the late Richard Nicoll, the viral shirts gave way to a new era in the often stuffy and elitist sector.

“They were like the band t-shirts or the football shirts of the fashion industry at a time when you couldn’t really express that you were a fashion fan other than buying a gown for thousands of pounds.”

Throughout the early 2000s, Holland’s feet barely touched the ground and he relished every opportunity that came his way, refusing to be penned as a “one-trick pony,” as some naysayers branded him.

Over the years he has collaborated with Levi’s, had a successful collection in Debenhams and even worked with the ice cream brand Magnum.

Holland has always loved telling stories through his work and the power of fashion is something he readily champions. “You can watch movies with the sound off and still know everything that you need to know about the character,” he adds. “I loved creating and putting on shows. Telling stories of the women and creating narratives. That's fashion’s biggest power.”

After 13 years of working on his own brand, the time came for a new chapter, one that was very natural to him. Having been a client of strategic and creative company ScienceMagic, Holland then joined its team as chief talent ventures officer last year. Tapping into his experience as the creative director of a global company, Holland used his know-how to work with clients, partnering them with talent to help with growth. It’s using the business side of his brain and letting him embrace purpose-led approaches.

For instance, he’s not keen on putting products out into the world for the sake of it, without meaning. And that's a feeling that lends itself to his other project, a ceramic brand.

Established during lockdown shortly after the passing of his beloved mother Stephanie, the practice is almost meditative for Holland and similarly to when he first burst onto the fashion scene, it's taken off. Just this week, the creative announced that he’s been working on an exhibition in collaboration with one of his heroes, legendary British designer Paul Smith. Aptly titled ‘Nobody Cares How Good You Used to Be,’ Holland’s ceramics will be part of Smith’s Mayfair store.

It’s the diversity of his career that loves the most, you get the sense that Holland just flat-out refuses to be pigeon-holed. He feels fortunate to have been able to follow his passions in life and turn them into business opportunities.

With over a decade-and-a-half in the creative industry then one piece of advice he’d give to the younger generation is to have confidence. “Have self-belief, understand your abilities, and follow it through.”