In her quest to find the 10 best shops in the world, Georgia Barretta-Whiteley finds some timber-clad escapism in the unlikely setting of inner city Paris.
Aesop Saint-Honoré, 256 rue Saint-HonoréStuff in Paris. Annoyingly better than stuff not in Paris. Nonchalance and flâneurs only work in Paris. Girls degusting steak-frites et vin rouge twice a day and accidently losing weight only works in Paris. What Paris does however gaily share with a handful of other places on the globe is a good peppering of ‘Aesop’ stores - the distinctive skin, hair and body care company offering botanically based products for men and for women.Founded in Melbourne in 1987, there are now more than thirty Aesop boutiques worldwide, including three in London, two in Switzerland and one particularly important network in Australia and Asia. Here in Paris, this little column is going to attempt to describe why Aesop’s new addition on rue Saint-Honoré is worth penning up for a spot in this list of 10. Located in an 18th century building close to the Royal Palace, it’s clear that Aesop has not wavered from its bold intention – it’s definitely different and distinctive and all for the right reasons.Distinguished by some key elements of its products' success - the quality of ingredients used, the minimalist aesthetic of the packaging and the development of a transparent communication - Aesop is just as equally renowned for the extraordinary experience of being in one of its individually designed stores, the opening of which is an event that attracts and surprises. What matters are both the product and the way we are ushered gently to experience it, adhering to the same basic principles of ‘crafting formulations of exceptional quality’. Every Aesop product is made with the same attention to detail the company believes should be applied to life at large, taking into consideration a diversity of needs as well as seasonal and environmental conditions. If you’re going to shift product by upselling shamelessly, do it in this kind of style.
Somehow then it makes sense that the store itself demonstrates a heart-warming empathy and culturally literate response to its environment. On learning that the site chosen for the opening of a store in Basel had resisted the earthquake of 1356, the decision was made to treat the place with respect and restraint. Flinders Lane in Melbourne was made entirely with industrial cardboard. In Adelaide, the ceiling is lined with more than seven thousand amber glass bottles arranged in undulating waves. In Singapore, the space is defined by plant fibers hanging from the ceiling. Unorthodox spaces with a history are a real source of inspiration for the architecture of shops. Clearly the position of the store is of great importance for Aesop, since their stores’ interior designs vary depending on their geographical location.Here, Saint-Honoré , designed by Rodney Eggleston of Melbourne’s March Studio with founder Dennis Paphitis, is a realisation of a material Eggleston felt best articulated Paris. "(We) soon became intrigued by the parquetry floors one sees throughout Paris," he says. "We wanted to explore inhabiting the space with one material, used in one encompassing way… that it covered the floor, walls and ceiling, lending a cohesive texture and warmth to the room."The wood of choice is Victorian Ash, a timber grown in renewable forests across Australia and in this instance, meticulously packed in shipping crates and sent over the sea to ‘learn some culture’ française. He’s right. With all this covered stuff inside, a boisterous retail destination has been hushed to a whisper. This store is flirting dangerously with being called a retreat.
And then there’s Denis. In an interview conducted by Dezeen editor-in-chief Marcus Fairs, Paphitis explains how the brand has worked with different design teams to avoid "the kind of assault on the streetscape that retailers inflict through the ordinary course of mindless business." Gimme' a ‘P’! He goes on: "I was horrified at the thought of Aesop evolving into a soulless chain. I’ve always imagined what we do as the equivalent of a weighty, gold charm bracelet on the tanned wrist of a glamorous, well-read European woman who has travelled and collected interesting experiences. I felt and still do that it should be possible to grow in a lateral way without prostituting the essence of what the company is about."Well, clearly some fiery Mediterranean blood, sweat and tears have been invested into our experience of this brand. All Aesop ingredients – the scientific ones inside the little brown bottles, and the contributors – inspired architects and interior designers the world over - are carefully selected for their ability to improve the performance of the product and experience. The exquisite scents and restoring spaces for which Aesop is renowned are a fluky treat.I’m now defiantly planning my next Aesop experience this side of the Channel.
Georgia Barretta-Whiteley is head of design at Saatchi & Saatchi XMore stores in this series: #1
Penhaligon’s English Perfume House, London#2
Comme Des Garçons, Hong Kong#3
BMW Welt, Munich#4
Alfred Dunhill, Bourdon House, London
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